Keeping chickens for beginners 🐔


Many animal lovers choose to keep chickens in their garden. And rightly so. Chickens are walking composting robots that also give you fresh eggs every day. The different breeds of hens also look spectacular, and if you manage to tame them from an early age, you'll have some superb pets. Are you thinking of keeping chickens in your garden? If so, there are a few things you need to bear in mind. With these tips, everything will go smoothly: chicken keeping for beginners, so to speak.


What types of chickens are there?

  • Classic laying hen: The brown or white leghorn is the best-known type of laying hen. These chickens do not get very old. They are known for a lively nature and a great need for exercise.
  • "Cuddly Chicken": Some breeds of chickens are bred for their calm nature. In a family with children, such breeds are ideal. This is because they are easier to tame. If you want to tame a chicken, it is best to start as early as possible (ideally when the chicken is still a chick). Dried mealworms are an excellent reward if you want to train them. Ornamental breeds such as the Brahma, Cochin bantam or Antwerp bearded bantam are naturally quite calm and therefore fine for children.
  • Ornamental chickens or meat chickens: These are the real stars of the run. Thanks to their colourful plumage, they certainly do not go unnoticed. They live to be 5 to 8 years old on average. However, their egg production is a lot lower than for laying hens. They require less coop space and are ideal chickens for beginners.
  • Bantams: The term bantam chickens designates breeds of chicken that are seen as the little brothers of the big chicken breeds. Just think of the Chabo. Eggs from bantam hens are logically a lot smaller.
If you start keeping chickens, it is best to buy 3 right away. This is because chickens prefer to live in small groups. There does not necessarily have to be a rooster with them.

What do you need to keep chickens?

Chickens need sufficient space. In the outdoor run, there should be about 1 to 1.5 m2 of space for each chicken. For the night coop, 0.5 m2 is sufficient. These are averages. The desirable surface area still varies by breed. The coop should be draught and moisture proof and have enough perches and laying nests. You can make the door of the coop close and open automatically using a Chickenguard. You can set a timer on this device so you don't have to go through all kinds of weather to manually close and open the coop door. Your chickens will also be better protected from hungry predators such as foxes. If your chickens don't perch on their own at night, it's best to put them inside yourself.

View recommended products 👇

slide 7 to 9 of 4

In the chicken run, there should be a dry bedding layer. This litter is a mixture of straw and dust-free wood fibres. These have a high absorption capacity, which makes it pleasant for chickens to stay in the coop, especially during extended periods of wetness. There should obviously be enough drinking and feeding troughs

A solid fence is also essential. This prevents your chickens from escaping and keeps predators - such as foxes - out of the run. 

Planting the chicken run is recommended. An evergreen shrub such as a spruce provides year-round protection. They also like herbaceous plants such as rosemary, sage or lavender. Boxwood, yew, foxglove and nightshades are toxic. It is best not to put these plants near the chicken run, because chickens are real Houdinis. Chickens like to take a sand or dust bath. They do this to wash away parasites. Is there no place with loose sand in their domain? Then provide a container with sand or fine lava or basalt meal. Anyway, it is smart to provide lava meal as it stops blood lice.

Marcel

Tip from Marcel

Put a fake egg in the laying nest. This teaches hens that they should lay their egg there and not haphazardly in their outside enclosure.

Beware of blood lice

 

Blood lice are one of the biggest nightmares for anyone who keeps chickens. Blood lice are minute arachnids that feed on blood at night. During the day, they hide in cracks and crevices. So always make sure your chicken coop is in impeccable condition. 

The consequences of blood lice in chickens can be disastrous. Fairly mild symptoms include increased stress and irritation. Laying production is also reduced. Already worse symptoms are loss of feathers and open wounds. In the worst case scenario, chickens die due to anaemia. Notice that your chickens' comb looks a lot paler than usual? Then there might not only be chickens living in the coop but also blood lice. Chickens try to remove blood lice from between their feathers. They do this with their beak which is called feather pecking. 

Scientific research has also shown that blood lice transmit avian flu to the chicken. Anyway, bird flu is a real risk for chickens. Be sure to keep an eye on the news, because if there is a bird flu outbreak in the area, it is possible that there will be a compulsory coop. Chickens infected with bird flu often show the first symptoms within hours. 

TIPSmoby - actually a toy manufacturer - made a chicken coop out of plastic. Not only is that easier to clean than a wooden chicken coop, blood lice have no chance to hide in cracks and crevices. So opt for plastic instead. Fighting blood lice can be done in several ways. 

A very effective way to control blood lice is using diatomaceous earth. Diatoms are microscopic algae with a shell made of a type of glass. Diatoms are made by finely grinding fossilised remains of these algae. These fossils have sharp edges where the almost microscopic fossils injure themselves and cause them to die. Another solution is to use a type of gas with patented formula. This penetrates more easily into the cracks and crevices where the blood lice hide. 

The most ecological solution is to use the natural enemy of blood lice: predatory mites! Predatory mites are not harmful to chickens but actively hunt blood lice. In no time, your chickens will be rid of those pesky blood lice!

What's for lunch? 


Fresh water every day and plenty of chicken feed. That is the basic menu of chickens. For a laying hen, count on about 100 grams of chicken feed per day and 40 ml of tap water per day. Basic chicken feed is laying pellet or laying meal. Laying pellets are easier to eat which means they spill less, so pests see less reason to occupy the run. Egg-laying meal is smaller, which keeps the chickens occupied for longer and so they are less likely to get bored. It's best not to feed too much at a time. Give them the right amount for 1 day so the feed doesn't get old. 

They can have some leftover vegetables every day, but don't overdo it. Leftovers should still be fresh and not mouldy. Raw potatoes, garlic, onions and fatty/spicy foods are out of the question. Dried insects are also a welcome change. With the help of stomach pebbles, they then digest chicken food again. Chicken grit supplements their calcium requirements. Chickens need calcium to produce the eggshell. If you notice chickens pecking their own eggs to pieces, they are often deficient in calcium and minerals.
 

Keeping chickens in winter 


As a novice chicken keeper, you may think that you need to protect your chickens properly in winter, but it's actually not that bad. Chickens can cope quite well with our relatively mild winters. Their plumage protects them extremely well, allowing them to withstand even sub-zero temperatures. Low temperatures are not as bad as draughts and humidity. Those are real cause of illness. 

Using insulation boards (which the chickens won't peck to pieces) insulates the coop. This will keep it nice and warm in winter and cool in summer. It is also best if the coop has double walls. Good ground cover is also essential. Straw, for example, will keep your chickens warm, but they will also keep each other warm by crawling close together. Use boards and tarpaulins to screen off corners. If this is not enough, you can add extra planting around the coop to keep out the cold wind. 

One of the biggest challenges of keeping chickens in winter is keeping the water trough free of ice. A chicken drinks throughout the day. So change the drinking water several times a day. Some styrofoam or a piece of wood under the trough will make the water less likely to freeze. It is also best to use a plastic trough instead of a metal one in winter. Do not give warm water.

View recommended products 👇

slide 4 to 6 of 10

More info? Receive all our gardening tips directly in your mailbox!

We'll only email you handy facts, green advice and our best promotions & discounts. You'll receive it about once a week and you can unsubscribe at any time. No spam, promise 🤞

9,3
Reviews & Zekerheden
9,3
(38166)
  • Echte ondernemers
  • Veilig online
  • Goede voorwaarden
  • Betrouwbare info
9,3
Reviews & Zekerheden
9,3
(38166)